This article serves as an English translation of the introductory chapter of my Hebrew book about the Via Palma. While the translation may not be perfect, it provides an opportunity for English readers to engage with the content until a more professional translation is available in the future.

Personal introduction

At 60, I felt compelled to embark on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, seeking insight into my future. As I see it, life unfolds in three distinct stages. The first, especially in Israel, spans until age 21, where one’s path is largely shaped by birthplace and social circles. The second stage, occurring between 21 and 50-60, is marked by building one’s life—establishing a career, raising a family, and the like. Finally, the third stage begins at around age 60, a period of personal reclamation after the physical and often career peak, when children have typically left home, and the reality of aging becomes apparent.

In two of these stages, we hold the reins of destiny firmly in our grasp. The first opportunity arises during the second stage, particularly in its initial years, roughly between 21 and 30. At this juncture, one is at the zenith of strength, capable of honing character, skills, and even crafting a self-defined identity, irrespective of early life circumstances or background. Aspirations are forged, abilities are honed, and networks are established, laying the groundwork for worldly conquests. Subsequently, years are devoted to labor and family, until a pivotal shift occurs: children depart, the body matures, and suddenly, one finds themselves at 60, their career in the rearview mirror. It’s a juncture where familiarity reigns, where surprises are deemed unlikely, and where rule-breaking holds little allure. Yet, it is precisely here that the call to embark on a journey resonates. At this stage, vitality still pulses within, offering a chance for a second life, a transition to the third chapter—an existence aptly termed “the life of the old man,” wherein another dimension is cultivated, one intimately tied to the specter of mortality. In our 50s and 60s, we possess the opportunity to construct our lives anew, ensuring the survival of our spiritual essence long after our physical selves depart.

As we transition towards the third chapter of life, our destiny gradually unfolds before us. Many individuals mistakenly believe that destiny reveals itself during the earlier stages, in the midst of life’s hustle and bustle, yet this is seldom the case. Most people become swept up in the currents of existence, only pausing to contemplate their true path after they’ve ostensibly “conquered” the world, provided they still possess the vigor for introspection. However, more often than not, we find ourselves continuing to drift along with the tide, clinging to the familiar and the “safe”—career pursuits, societal status, the pursuit of pleasures, and the aggrandizement of the ego, perpetuating our established territories instead of pausing to disconnect from the mainstream current. It’s a moment where embarking on a journey of self-discovery takes precedence over the allure of the familiar, inviting a novel exploration of the self.

At the age of 57, I came to a profound realization, prompting me to embark on what I termed the “Five Year Plan”. This project aimed to harvest the fruits of my endeavors during the second stage of life and consolidate them into a series of books to sustain me over the next 30 years during the third stage of my life.

By the time I turned 60, the core of my work was complete: I had authored 17 books on spiritual traditions in Israel and abroad, synthesizing four decades of research and experience. I was nearing the completion of my PhD studies and had achieved a level of financial stability that met my needs. Yet, despite these accomplishments, I sensed a lingering emptiness. Thus, I resolved to embark on a pilgrimage from the Galilee, my home, to Jerusalem, seeking clarity on where to direct my energies and attention next—seeking, as the proverb says, “from where shall my help come?” I sought a genuine, deep-seated answer from within, beyond mere mental calculations or emotional stirrings. The journey itself became a vehicle for introspection, aiding me in discerning my aspirations for my golden years. This book recounts that transformative journey.

My original five-year plan comprised three phases: writing a series of books on spiritual traditions worldwide; composing a series of books on spiritual traditions and sacred sites in Israel (with this book as the final installment); and completing my doctoral thesis on the attributes of holiness in charismatic holy places in Israel. However, amid the Herculean tasks, moments of profound meaning and spirituality unexpectedly emerged, reaching me without conscious intent. After my 60th birthday, a newfound depth of meaning infused my writing—a dimension I hadn’t anticipated when embarking on the project three years prior. The journey thus evolved into a personal odyssey, prompting me to begin this book on a deeply personal note.

As I embarked on the five-year program at age 57, I couldn’t foresee what lay ahead at 60. Similarly, as I enter older age, uncertainty prevails. Yet, intuition guided me to select a terrain where a mystical ray of meaning could penetrate—pilgrimage. Though I initially planned to write a book on pilgrimage at the onset of the five-year plan, its connection to internal processes wasn’t apparent then. However, upon reaching 60 and undertaking the pilgrimage, it mirrored my life journey, igniting a surge of emotions and accelerating internal processes. Pilgrimage, I discovered, closely parallels life’s journey.

During the pilgrimage, I realized that the third chapter of my life is intricately linked to Jerusalem, signaling a need to depart from my home in the Galilee and relocate to the Holy City. Though I spent my formative years in Jerusalem, this return isn’t merely a homecoming but rather a departure into a new phase of exploration. While many at this age settle into familiarity, I’m compelled to venture forth, leaving behind the comfort of the known—family, friends, and the familiar landscape. It’s akin to the Hindu tradition, where the age of 60 marks a transition into wandering in the forest, embracing new quests and challenges.

Victor Turner, the esteemed anthropologist, introduced the concept of “communitas” within the framework of pilgrimage. He proposed that pilgrimage disrupts our ordinary routines and societal divisions, uniting participants in a common purpose. This fosters a sense of brotherhood and kinship, imbuing life with meaning and enabling individuals to navigate differences and distances in everyday life. Furthermore, pilgrimage involves a departure from the familiar and arrival at an unfamiliar destination, a concept Turner termed “liminality.” Liminality, according to Turner, allows for boundary-breaking and personal development, supported by the sense of communitas. I would add that this sense of brotherhood extends not only to others but also to different facets of ourselves, and perhaps even to our connection with the divine. While Jerusalem may be considered the center of the world, my pilgrimage there felt like a journey to the edge, toward the unknown—a theme I aim to explore in this book.

Writing a book about pilgrimage to Jerusalem holds significant personal importance for me, as Israel stands as a sacred destination and a focal point for pilgrimage across three major religions. In particular, I chose to delve into the pilgrimage experience of Christians during the Middle Ages, amidst the backdrop of the Crusades. My fascination with the Crusader pilgrimage route to Jerusalem was sparked by an intriguing discovery in one of Prof. Yehoshua Prawer’s works on the Crusader era. I stumbled upon the existence of a forgotten Christian pilgrimage path from Acre to Jerusalem, known as the “Via Palma,” which ran parallel to esteemed pilgrimages to Santiago and Rome—the three great pilgrimages of the Middle Ages. Having previously embarked on the Santiago de Compostela route in Spain and being deeply moved by the rich social and cultural dynamics surrounding it, I felt compelled to undertake a similar journey in Israel. Thus, I set out to explore this historically significant but overlooked route, traversing its entirety on foot, and documenting my discoveries along the way.

Having completed the journey, I strongly believe that the route I rediscovered holds the potential to evolve into an international pilgrimage route that will captivate many individuals. However, beyond its potential as a tourist attraction, what is truly significant is the promotion and popularization of pilgrimage as a practice. Pilgrimage offers numerous benefits to both society and the individual.

It’s crucial to recognize that pilgrimage arises within the context of a particular era. The route I’ve explored is set against the backdrop of the chivalry movement, the emergence of mystical Christianity, and the legends of the Holy Grail and the Crusades—themes deeply intertwined with the Land of Israel. These spiritual elements have captivated me for decades, drawing me to explore them further during this pilgrimage.

Indeed, regardless of one’s faith or destination, a journey remains a journey. Whether it’s a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, Santiago, or Mecca, pilgrims from all religions share similar experiences. They traverse landscapes, exert physical effort, anticipate the journey’s start, and relish in the satisfaction of reaching their destination. Along the way, they may undergo internal transformations—receiving answers, undergoing cleansing and purification, gaining insights, and finding inspiration. The journey taps into our subconscious, harkening back to our ancestral roots as hunter-gatherers embarking on sacred journeys across the earth.

The essence of a journey lies in its surprises—the unexpected encounters and discoveries that await us. It’s in these moments that deeper meanings can seep into our souls, as they did for me. While there are plenty of academic works and courses on pilgrimage to Jerusalem, many lack a personal touch, as their authors often haven’t experienced the journey themselves. In contrast, this book intertwines my firsthand experiences from Santiago and the Via Palma pilgrimage with my knowledge of chivalry, Christian mysticism, and initial research on the “Via Palma” route. Its goal is to vividly recount the story of the “Via Palma” pilgrimage, inspiring readers to embark on their own journeys while using this book as an inner guide.

The book primarily focuses on the “Via Palma,” the historic pilgrimage route from Acre to Jerusalem that emerged during the Middle Ages. It provides essential background on the Crusades and Chivalry. Additionally, it delves into the Jewish pilgrimage to Jerusalem during the time of the Temple’s existence, which partly overlaps with the “Via Palma” route. In contemporary Israel, attitudes toward Jewish pilgrimage vary widely, from academic interest to a complete lack of understanding and appreciation for the phenomenon. This is surprising given that pilgrimage was a fundamental aspect of Jewish life and religion during biblical and Second Temple times. It’s remarkable that there hasn’t been more consideration of reviving the tradition of pilgrimage by walking to Jerusalem over several days during the three major holidays. Indeed, pilgrimage could offer much-needed spiritual enrichment in our time.

From a personal standpoint, my pilgrimage to Jerusalem marked a successful modern rite of passage into my third chapter of life. It was a realization that it was time for me to unilaterally transition from the Galilee to the Jerusalem mountains, allowing me to focus on the spiritual realm—a move that felt necessary before circumstances forced it upon me. I strongly believe that being in the right place fosters deep thinking, connection, and personal growth, and there’s no place quite like Jerusalem in that regard. The Judean Mountains are where I wish to be laid to rest. While the pilgrimage journey showed me the way, I invite you to join me on this journey within the pages of this book. Perhaps it will spark new insights about the next stage of your own life and inspire you to embark on your own pilgrimage journey, whether physical or spiritual.

Zeev ben arie – Lotem